All posts in July 2016

Despite the svelte profile though, the gold 15202 is a surprisingly hefty watch. This tactile illusion is due, of course to the fact that gold’s density is almost 3 times that of stainless steel, lending the assertive wrist presence of a much larger sports view to one which can otherwise slip easily under the cuff of a dress shirt. When you examine the bracelet and case when thinking about the weight of the gold, the slim profile but strong gold appearance presents a contrasted personality that works well. It is safe, but a modern design icon within an old-school material.From the dial-side, the appearance and texture of this 15202 is distinctly timeless — such as a vintage re-issue of this original 5402 in golden. Inside though, beats another story. Here we’ve got the Caliber 2121, currently produced in house by Audemars Piguet Most Expensive Watch 2012 Replica (in the Royal Oak’s formative years, the 2121 was really created by Jaeger LeCoultre). It’s an ultra-thin automated movement measuring 3.05mm thick, and characterized with a particular 2.75Hz (19,800 vibrations per hour), although marginally lower-than-average alternance isn’t easily visible as the 15202 doesn’t feature a running moments hand. Contrary to the 5402 that prompted it, the 15202 has a sapphire crystal exhibition caseback, through which the cal. 2121’s 21-carat gold rotor is observable, as it slides back and forth about the circular rail running the circumference of the motion — one of the tricks allowing the 2121’s signature thinness.In complete, the 15202 will be available in three variants — the newest gold alternatives (yellow gold onto champagne yellow, or yellow gold on blue) combine the existing stainless steel 15202 that was re-introduced back in 2012. While the stainless steel Extra-Thin Jumbo Royal Oak starts at approximately $22,000, people looking to ‘remain gold’ could expect to part with more double that — $55,000 for the 18-carat gold variants.

In a striking departure from the original design, Audemars Piguet just unveiled the Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph, in an aggressive restyling for the 25^th anniversary of its iconic oversized sports watch. Excepting the Royal Oak Concept of 2002, the 25th anniversary Offshore is arguably the most radical reimagining of the octagonal design to date.

Slated to mark its birthday next year, the Royal Oak Offshore was introduced in 1993, itself a commemorative model meant to mark the 20^th anniversary of the Royal Oak. Designed by a Emmanuel Gueit, now an independent designer whose greatest triumph was the Offshore, the watch was a beefed up, 42mm version of the slim, original Royal Oak, making it almost abnormally large for the era. While it was met with criticism from the industry – Royal Oak designer Gerald Genta reputedly disliked it – the Offshore grew to become one of the most influential watches in contemporary watchmaking, surpassing the Royal Oak in pop cultural significance.

In the early to mid 2000s the Offshore was arguably the hottest watch of the era, acquiring a cult status among celebrities and athletes, especially in the United States, with over 120 iterations and special limited editions, including versions dedicated to Jay-Z, Arnold Schwarzenegger and LeBron James.

The Offshore undergone slight tweaks over the years – once in 2006 and again in 2014 – but never to the extent undertaken with the new Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph. Slated for an official launch at SIHH 2018, it is both edgy and open-worked, gaining a menacing profile thanks to an entirely redesigned dial, movement and bezel.

While the complications and movement are based on an existing model (the refs. 26388PO & 26288OR), the anniversary model is defined by a new bezel. The famous octagonal bezel was slimmed down and hollowed out around the exposed screw heads (which are actually nuts as Royal Oak fans will know). In turn, the dial has been reduced to a series of eight skeletonised bridges that are secured by the eight nuts. Four of the largest bridges secure each of the twin barrels, as well as the tourbillon.

While the case has retained its signature style, subtle changes have given it a more athletic profile. The bevels on the flanks of the lugs are wider and more pronounced, for instance. It measures 45mm in diameter, and is available in both stainless steel and pink gold.

And as with the second generation Offshore chronograph, the crown and pushpieces are now in black ceramic instead of rubber-coated metal. On the steel model the pushpiece guards are titanium, while while the gold version they are in pink gold.

While the cal. 2947 movement inside is new, it is a variant of the existing cal. 2933. It is hand-wound, with both an integrated column wheel chronograph and tourbillon regulator, as well as double barrels that offer a seven-day power reserve.

Price and Availability

Limited to 50 pieces each, Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph in stainless steel (ref. 26421ST.OO.A002CA.01) is priced at SFr275,000 and the pink gold (ref. 26421OR.OO.A002CA.01) at SFr310,000; prices exclude taxes.

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Fortunately, it isn’t all teary-eyed past-reviving that is occurring at this anniversary — kudos to AP for it. Accordingly, together with the re-edition Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph, we see the Introduction of the brand new Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph, specifically Ref. 26421ST and 26421OR, which have an entirely new layout in two different instance materials.Based on two earlier Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph watches, specifically the Ref. 26388PO (see our hands-on with it here) and 26288OR, those fresh Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph watches come in stainless steel and 18k rose gold and feature a brand new case design which has a thinner bezel and hence a more spacious dial. Even so, the identifying Royal Oak Offshore design characteristics are all intact. The 45mm case remains angular, the bezel is still octagonal, and there’s no lost those vulnerable hexagonal screws around the bezel. Completing the look are black ceramic pushers for the chronograph and a screw-down crown. Water resistance is also 100m. On the dial, one can observe the exposed motion and the tourbillon in 9 o’clock. Opposite the tourbillon in 3 o’clock is your 30-minute counter to get the chronograph. Also clearly visible are the two mainspring barrels. 26388PO & 26288OR. This specific movement features 338 components, an incorporated chronograph movement that has a column wheel mechanism, a heartbeat rate of 3Hz, and a power reserve of a whopping 237 hours. Royal Oak Offshore fanatics are definitely eager to understand the prices, and we will update the article when we are able to confirm. Each Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph 25th Anniversary version is limited to 50 pieces.

Gold, not mere gold, but gold, is usually thought of as yellow. Gold bullion, the stuff that gets stolen in films, is yellow gold. Despite its popularity amongst villains, this sort of gold has been out of fashion for some time. Pundits have predicted the return of yellow gold, but it hasn’t happened yet. Paying no heed, Audemars Piguet has revived the Royal Oak in yellow gold.

There is no other watch design that shows off the beauty of metal finishing better than the Royal Oak. None. Though the essential form of the watch is simple, octagonal and angular, the lines of the case, particularly its edges, are complex. Even the Patek Philippe Nautilus – a brother from another mother as one might say – has softer, rounder lines.

And so the Royal Oak in 18k gold is especially lustrous. That lustre has only been available in rose gold, or occasionally platinum, until SIHH 2016, when Audemars Piguet debuted an entire line of Royal Oaks in yellow gold, including the Royal Oak Chronograph 41 mm (ref. 26320BA). The basics of the watch are identical to the stainless steel model: a 41 mm case with screw-down chronograph pushers and the Frederic Piguet calibre 1185 inside.

All the right angles

The watch is large, chunky and gleaming. Because it’s so flashy, the nuance of the case finish can only be appreciated up close. It acquits itself very well that way, with wide, mirror-polished bevels and beautifully straight grained surfaces, intersected by a neat, precise edge. Even though the two surface finishes are very different, the edge where they meet is remarkably sharp; it’s hard to think of another watchmaker that finishes cases with such competence. Even the crown guards, which are basic forms in most other watches, are remarkably shaped and finished.

All those beautiful sharp edges and angular forms have a downside though, the Royal Oak does not feel as smooth on the wrist as its peers (the Nautilus for instance), a sensation that’s even more pronounced with the weighty precious metal models. And another downside of the lovely case is how easily it scratches and scuffs. All the gorgeous, mirror-polished bevels mark exceptionally easier, as does the brushed top surfaces.

Decorated with tapisserie guilloche, the dial is classic Royal Oak. The very same motif found on the original 1972 Royal Oak “Jumbo”, it’s made up of tiny, raised squares along with extremely fine, overlapping concentric circles that are a result of the hand-operated engine-turning process. To match the case, the hands and hour markers are 18k yellow gold; the baton hour markers have lengthwise bevels and are impressively well-defined.

An old soul inside

The greatest weakness of the Royal Oak Chronograph is its movement. Termed the Audemars Piguet 2385, it is actually a Frederic Piguet calibre 1185. Though almost 30 years old, having been introduced in 1988, the 1185 remains one of the most compact chronograph movements on the market. Not only is it small, the refined 1185 is also an integrated construction with all the usual features associated with high-end chronographs, namely a column wheel and vertical clutch. A revolutionary development in its time, the 1185 influenced chronograph design in a major way, especially in the last decade, with movements from Omega, Panerai, Cartier and Rolex being similar in many respects.

But fine as it is, the 1185 is not in-house. Rival luxury sports chronographs from Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin boast in-house movements (the new VC Overseas only just arrived this year). While having an in-house movement in itself means nothing, at this price point a well constructed and decently finished in-house movement is now the expectation given what its rivals are doing.

Pricing and availability 

Already available in stores, the Royal Oak Chronograph 41 mm in yellow gold is priced at US$56,600 or S$79,400. It’s available with a silver dial (ref. 26320BA.OO.1220BA.01) or dark blue dial (ref. 26320BA.OO.1220BA.02).

Vacheron Constantin’s newest timepiece, the stylish and elegant Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date replica watch, aims to make every single second count, in the best way possible. It might be one of the newest designs from the 261-year old replica watchmaker, but this exquisite timepiece is actually part of a collection that’s inspired by Vacheron Constantin’s  1950s designs.

The Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date shows off a classy 42 mm case, available in either 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold, and regardless of your choice, this Vacheron Constantin mens replica watch will handle 30-meter deep waters. It will also come with a silvered opaline dial, featuring the cool retrograde complication visible across 9 to 3 o’clock.

The moon phase display is really stylish as well, and its precision is of the utmost importance – which is why it’s only off by a single day every 122 years. Furthermore, the moon disc is rendered using the same gold alloy as the case, and the same goes for the hands, applied hour markers, and circular “pearl” minute track.

Everything ticks thanks to Vacheron Constantin’s in-house calibre 2460 R31L, thankfully visible through the sapphire case back, and with 275 components, 27 jewels, and 28,800 vph, this movement offers 40 hours worth of backup power.